As the leaves change colour and temperatures drop, not just our wardrobes need an update; our skincare routines also require a seasonal shift. Autumn and winter weather can damage our skin, leaving it dry, flaky, and dull. Colder temperatures and decreased humidity can strip our skin of natural oils and moisture, leading to a loss of elasticity and a dull complexion.
This post will explore how these seasons affect our skin and offer expert tips to keep your complexion healthy and glowing all winter. We will discuss the importance of using rich moisturisers, avoiding harsh exfoliants, and incorporating healthy ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides into your routine.
By following these simple tips, you can help your skin weather the storm and emerge looking radiant and refreshed. Let's embrace the beauty of autumn and winter while keeping our skin healthy and glowing.
What happens to the skin during autumn?
Autumn is a dry and cold season when we must focus on keeping our skin healthy and hydrated. Heating is on at home, at work, and in most indoor spaces. On the other hand, during summer, the skin is exposed to the sun, and we start to see the effects of radiation on it.
Autumn affects our skin in five ways mainly:
Less sun exposure. During autumn, days are shorter and colder. We usually spend a longer time indoors, away from the sun. That is not bad, as excessive sun exposure may lead to dry skin, premature ageing, and other issues. However, as we are not exposed to the sun, the tan acquired during summer starts to fade, and hyperpigmentation spots produced during summer become more noticeable.
Cooler weather. When it's cold, our skin reduces sebum production and transpiration. This has a negative consequence: Our skin becomes dry, and the natural barrier can be damaged; this makes us vulnerable to external agents, and we can suffer from skin irritation.
Some skin concerns can worsen during autumn and winter. Atopic dermatitis can appear. This problem results from a lack of proteins caused by dehydrated skin.
Increased use of indoor heating. That can dry our skin further, producing dehydration and irritation.
Dry air. During autumn, the air is dry. Dry air can pull moisture from our skin, making it even more dehydrated.
Disruption of circadian rhythms. Circadian rhythms are the natural sleep/awake cycles. When the clock changes in autumn, our circadian rhythm can suffer an alteration that produces a lack of sleep. As the skin regenerates mainly while we sleep, the lack of sleep can have a negative impact on our skin.
In summary, autumn can affect our skin in different ways—however, most changes during autumn lead to the same effect: dehydrated skin.
Best ingredients for healthy skin this autumn
During autumn, we need to fight dryness and dehydration. The most important ingredients we need to include in our routine are hydration-related, meaning humectants, emollients, and occlusives. However, they are not the only essential ingredients to consider. We also need to include antioxidants and exfoliators. We must remember the importance of natural ingredients.
Let's see each category in more detail:
Humectant, emollient and occlusive. All these ingredients are essential to skin hydration, although each type has a different function. Humectant ingredients get the skin wet. Emollients help protect the skin against transepidermal water loss and strengthen the skin barrier. Finally, occlusive ingredients form a physical barrier over the skin, keeping the moisture locked in.
The most essential ingredients to consider in this group are:
Hyaluronic acid. If I ask about one hydrating ingredient, your answer will probably be hyaluronic acid. It is a naturally occurring molecule. It is a glycosaminoglycan, a polymer of disaccharides composed of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, linked via glycosidic bonds. Hyaluronic acid can retain up to 1000 times its weight in water. Therefore, it is a good hydrating ingredient to include in our routine.
Ceramides are lipids naturally present in our skin barrier. They are fatty acids and comprise 30-40% of the epidermis. Ceramides keep the cells together and create a protective layer over our skin. This layer prevents external damage and avoids the loss of water.
Squalane is an emollient that mimics the skin's natural oils. It is a lightweight, non-greasy oil. Squalane is a hydrocarbon from squalene hydrogenation. It is a good ingredient for hydrating the skin without clogging pores.
Glycerine is a good ingredient to use during autumn and winter. It is a highly effective humectant, attracting moisture and drawing it into the skin's external layers.
Manuka Honey, a natural ingredient used for centuries, is a humectant and moisturiser. It attracts water to the skin and helps to retain it. Antioxidants are essential ingredients in any skincare routine.
Because of dry and cold weather in autumn, our skin is dehydrated, the skin barrier is weaker, and free radicals can quickly produce oxidative stress. Antioxidants fight free radicals and help stop or slow down oxidative stress.
The most important antioxidants to consider are:
Vitamin C. Vitamin C is one of the most potent antioxidants. It helps slow ageing, prevent sun damage, and improve the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots and acne, among other benefits.
Green Tea Extract is a natural antioxidant that is also anti-inflammatory and soothes irritated skin. It is a good option for people with sensitive skin.
Niacinamide is an effective ingredient during the cold months, strengthening the skin barrier and helping to lock moisture in. It also has extra benefits, like healing acne and treating hyperpigmentation.
Exfoliants. You may think it is strange to exfoliate the skin when it is more sensitive, dry, and vulnerable, but it is not strange, and it is a good idea to do so. Exfoliation helps eliminate dead cells, which makes the skin healthier.
We can use different exfoliants, like AHA, BHA or retinol, depending on your skin type.
Natural Ingredients. Some natural ingredients help maintain healthy skin during autumn and winter and allow for the creation of an environmentally friendly skincare routine.
Some of the most common natural ingredients for your skin during the cold months are:
Olive oil is a very effective ingredient with different properties. The most important features are its antioxidant capacity and hydrating properties.
Sweet Almond Oil contains vitamins A and E, fatty acids, and zinc, which help lock moisture in the skin.
Rosehip oil contains fatty acids and vitamins, such as vitamins A, C, and E, which stimulate collagen production.
Jojoba Oil contains vitamins A, B, D, and E. It is a good ingredient for boosting skin moisture.
Marula Oil. Marula oil contains fatty acids, antioxidants, and amino acids like L-arginine. Its main benefit is that it hydrates the skin all day, which is ideal during the cold months.
Shea butter is rich in triglycerides, vitamins, and fatty acids. It has emollient, moisturiser, and skin-nourishing properties. The high lipid content helps to reinforce the hydrolipidic skin barrier.
Top Tips for Healthy Hydrated Skin
I don't recommend a very long, complicated, and time-consuming skincare routine. A routine with the essential steps of using the right products is better. Sometimes, we build a routine involving many different products, but we skip it most of the day because it's late or we are tired.
The basic routine I recommend during autumn has only five steps, and it is the following:
Cleansing should be the first and most important step in any routine. Our routine should start with clean skin to improve the absorption of all the products we apply in the following steps.
I advise using a gentle moisturising cleanser in the morning and double cleansing at night. Double cleansing consists of using a cleansing balm or oil to remove makeup and other dirt, followed by a water-based cleanser to remove excess balm and water-soluble dirt.
Exfoliation. If your skin is dull, use a daily glycolic acid toner at night; this will accelerate the cell renewal process.
Dark Spot Serum. It is common to have new dark spots after summer. During summer, we are more exposed to UV radiation, which produces hyperpigmentation. I recommend using a serum to treat the dark spots and prevent new spots from appearing.
Hydration is the second most crucial step of the year. During autumn, hydration helps protect our skin from temperature changes and prevents dry skin.
Use a moisturising cream containing hyaluronic acid, ceramides, squalene, or glycerine. I also recommend using a cream designed for the area around the eyes, as it is especially dry and sensitive.
Autumn has shorter days and is not very sunny; however, we should always use sunscreen. My advice is to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen of at least SFP 30. Broad-spectrum sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB.
Ten Autumn Skincare Tips
I want to finish this post by recommending essential products for healthy skin this season.
Avoid excessive cleansing. An excess of soap can eliminate the natural oils from our skin.
Replace your face cleanser with a gentle one.
Exfoliate your skin once a week to remove dead cells.
Apply a serum to remove dark spots and a serum containing probiotics to nourish your skin.
Use sunscreen even if it is cloudy.
Hydrate your skin twice daily to have healthy, fresh, luminous skin.
Use antioxidants to avoid skin ageing.
Drink plenty of water to stay hydrated from the inside.
Avoid drinking coffee and alcohol, as these substances can lead to skin dehydration.
Eat fruits and vegetables as they help to delay the ageing process.
As we've seen, autumn and winter weather can present unique challenges for our skin. Colder temperatures and decreased humidity can strip our skin of natural oils and moisture, leading to dryness, flakiness and loss of elasticity.
To maintain healthy skin during the colder months, prioritise hydration by using richer moisturisers, incorporating hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides, and considering using a humidifier. Avoid harsh exfoliants and opt for gentle methods to prevent further irritation. Protect your skin from the elements by wearing a scarf and hat, and stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water.
By following these tips and adapting your skincare routine to the changing seasons, you can ensure your skin remains healthy, glowing and resilient throughout winter.
Dr Irene Resa
Bioanalytical Chemist
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